How Do Surfers Deal With Big Waves- Surfing is a dangerous sport.
The waves and the ocean are powerful and unforgiving. When surfers encounter big waves, they have to be careful — or risk injuries or even death.
Here’s how they deal with big waves.
Surf at the size you are comfortable with
The best surfer in the world is not always the one who’s catching the biggest waves.
There are so many factors to take into account when you’re trying to catch a wave, including how many other surfers are in the water and how big the waves are.
The best way to deal with a big wave is to surf where you can.
If you can see a small wave and ride it, then do that instead of going out into the ocean where the big waves are.
Sometimes, the big waves are so large that they’re just too much for you to handle.
Be aware of the size of the waves you’re facing
The single most important thing about surfing to remember is that you can’t control the waves, you can only control how you surf.
When faced with big waves, it’s important to recognize that you can’t control the waves, but you can control how you stay safe and deal with the situation.
Surf under the right conditions for your skill level
Doing your research is essential to both short and long-term success. Do you know the differences between types of surfboards?
Understanding the mechanics of advanced maneuvers? What you should bring to a surf session?
As your knowledge increases, so does your convenience and confidence.
A solid knowledge of your local surf breaks is absolutely essential. When you’re paddling out, don’t take any risks; make sure you survey the conditions before entering the water.
Never take for granted that you know what’s happening at the break, even if it’s your regular stomping ground.
Surfline has written articles about how to best respond to various weather conditions (i.e., how to act when waves are closing out).
Take care of yourself out there – You should try to find a balance between physical and mental preparation because both aspects are equally important.
Some people like to naturally raise their heart rate before they get in the water, but if you want to get into a flow state, the zone, it might be better for you to lower your heart rate.
Surf your best each time you hit the water by reducing your mental and physical stress with a few minutes of calm nose breathing before you leave the beach.
This helps reduce your heart rate, brain wave activity, and stress levels, keeping you in tune with the waves, sections, and positioning throughout the session.
Avoid getting injured by the waves – When you’re caught in an oncoming wave, it’s easy to panic.
Relax! If you’re faced with a breaking wave, don’t look straight into the oncoming water! Face the shore with your body in the same direction, with your paddle in one hand.
Use both sides of your body to steer in towards shore. This will allow you to push back against the wave if necessary.
Conclusion: Learn how to surf by reading books and of course this blog
Learn how to surf by reading books and other surfing instruction.
Knowing how to survive the ocean is important, and having real-life experience in the water can help you learn by trial and error, to gather all the information you need to surf well.
Since knowing how to surf effectively begins with understanding the physics of the sport itself, it’s important that you learn about your board and its functions such as speed and tilt.
Here are my best surfing blog posts
- Beginner to Intermediate Surfer Advice (Best one)