Started surfing at the late age of 13 years old, in an area that has the highest concentration of world champion surfers, anywhere in the world (Avalon beach, Sydney Australia). Kelly Slater owns an apartment on south Avalon headland, so he can surf at ”Little Av” aka L.A whenever he’s in town.
My friend’s sister learned to surf with us boys growing up, she ended up becoming women’s world champion ”Chelsea Georgeson”.
It was common to see ex-world champions Barton Lynch (Whale beach) and Tom Carrol (Newport beach) surfing at their home beaches, either side of my beach Avalon.
Surfing was my life for almost a decade, I used to check the surf every single day and manage to get a wave in almost every day. Depending on the swell direction, size, tide, wind direction, what the sandbanks were doing etc etc. Based on all these factors, I was always able to find a spot to surf amongst the choices we had on the northern beaches.
Let’s just say that I have knowledge of surfing, definitely enough knowledge to have a blog on the topic.