As an experienced surfer, I remember when I first started learning. I wasn’t aware of how unsafe surfing can be, so my parents forced me to prove that I could swim a certain amount before actually getting in the surf.
When you get into the ocean, even if you are with friends, the cold hard truth is you are alone. Your friends will struggle to help you, if you get in trouble in the surf. Unless a lifeguard is close by with all of their equipment, you will have to help yourself.
Even though this sport is clearly very dangerous if you don’t respect the shear power of the ocean and it’s waves. People still ”want to learn to surf but can’t swim”. I personally think this is reckless, you must respect the surf.
The funny thing is, when I hear beginner surfers talk tough about surfing, it does trigger me sometimes. Because surfing is a dangerous sport, no one can become a surfer overnight, surfing is a meritocracy. You must earn your position as a surfer, there’s no shortcuts.
In a world where marketers can lie about their abilities and people working white collar jobs get promotions without earning it. Surfing is one of the few sports left that will humble you. The waves will force you to respect it, the ocean will smash you over and over again until to learn that the ocean is the boss, not you.
This is why surfers are so humble.
You should not learn to surf if you can’t swim as it will increase the chances of you drowning. Surfers lose their surfboards in the ocean regularity, without the surfboard as a floatation device, the surfer is forced to swim. Surfing in the ocean is a dangerous sport, that requires a certain level of swimming ability.
Read on, if you want to learn more about the need to be a good swimmer before learning to surf.
Having trouble learning to surf? Here are some high-quality surfing tips from a real surfer.
Do You Need To Be A Good Swimmer To Surf?
Imagine this: you are in the ocean, way past where the waves are breaking, waiting for a wave. A set comes (group of usually three big waves) and one of those waves breaks on you.
The power of this wave pulls your surfboard with such force, that the leg rope that connects your ancle to the surfboard snaps. Your surfboard gets washed ashore. You turn around and another wave is coming, it’s just as big as the previous wave and its about to break on top of you.
There’s another problem…
The clear water has turned white like a storm is brewing under the surface. Before, the clear water was easy to float in, but this stormy white water instead feels like quicksand. Instead of being able to float, the white water is dragging you under.
The wave crashes on top of you and throws you around like a ragdoll. You are panicking, which uses more oxygen that you would prefer. This means you have fewer precious seconds underwater.
Surfing is one of the most difficult sports to learn. Here’s a full list why surfing is so tough.
Watch this surf video:
The video above is an extreme case of a pro surfer catching big waves, however it is still relevant to you. This pro surfer’s skills are advanced and most of you reading this will have beginner surfing ability.
Which means in small waves, you will have the same problems the surfer in this video is having. Small waves to you, will feel exactly like watching this surfer struggle against the surf.
Even small waves can make you feel helpless out in the surf, make sure you are prepared.
You do need to be a good swimmer to surf. All good surfers can swim and tread water. Surfers always swim with their heads above the water, being aware of their surroundings while swimming is a valuable skill for surfers to have as a wave can crash on them anytime.
This pro surfer has a depth of knowledge of the ocean that most of you reading this will never achieve. Don’t underestimate how important knowledge is for a surfer out there.
As a beginner surfer, you will have to learn the hard way. Unfortunately that means accidentally getting in situations in the surf you don’t want to be in. Keep reading my blog and it will help you get the basic knowledge of surfing, I’ll try my best to keep you out of trouble.
Not to mention the obvious, but the pro surfer who’s surfing big waves, has guys on jetskis driving around picking up surfers who get into trouble. You will not have anyone on standby, ready to save you. Don’t forget this.
Surfing on a shortboard is the most advanced, here is how you can learn to ride a shortboard in a short period of time.
Swimming Level Required Before Learning To Surf
The swimming level I would recommend you have before jumping in the surf is only the baseline level I would require. The better the swimmer you are the safer you will be while surfing.
Instead of giving an arbitrary level of swimming skill before surfing, I’ll suggest three aspects that you must be proficient in before hitting the waves.
- Tread water
- Swim a long distance without stopping
- Swimming with your head above the surface of the water
These are the three main forms of swimming you need to be good at, before even entering the surf in my opinion.
Have a look at the beach and measure the distance between the area where the surfers sit to wait for waves and the shore. Think to yourself, if you had to swim from the spot where the surfers are sitting, all the way to the shore, would you be able to swim that distance.
Then take into account, all of the waves that would crash into you while you’re swimming to the shore. Imagine treading water for that entire time too. And throw into the mix the ability to hold your breath for a long period of time in between waves hitting you.
Surfers don’t swim like people you see in the pool either, next time you’re at the beach try to observe how surfers swim. Us surfers always keep our head above the water while swimming, this is a little slower than normal swimming in a pool.
I’d almost calculate the distance you’ll need to swim, then add in a stop every 20 metres or so. At every stop you should hold your breath under water for 30 seconds. Then tread water in the same spot for 5 minutes to 10 minutes.
Then double that swimming ability for security reasons.
You don’t have to take my advice seriously, that’s fine. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. The surf deserves your respect, if you don’t, it will humble you.
How you can go from beginner surfer to intermediate surfer fast. Here’s a full article on it.